“Don’t mind me, I’m just a castle in someone’s back yard.”
Eileen cooked us a very nice breakfast, and we thanked her and headed out toward Killarney. We were completely off the highway the entire drive, and the roads weren’t very busy, so we took our time and soaked in the ubiquitous greenery of the Irish countryside. On our way, we saw a castle that appeared to be in someone’s back yard. History everywhere!
We arrived in Killarney mid-morning. We had heard that Killarney was one of the country’s worst tourist traps, but it wasn’t all that busy at all. We spent a bit of time wandering the gift shops. Alexis purchased some CDs of Irish music to set the mood in the car (why we had not done this sooner, I don’t know) and I bought a penny whistle to be annoying with. We had some very good fish and chips at Sceale Eile, and decided to walk through Killarney National Park to Ross Castle.
On the boat to Innisfallen Island (Ross Castle in the background)
After a half hour walk we arrived at the castle. It is quite beautiful, nestled in the mountains of the National Park and on the edge of Lough Leane. We were a bit castled out, so we opted out of paying for the tour and just walked around it. We saw some men in motorboats giving rides to somewhere on the Lough. We asked how much, and were told ten euro each for about about a 45 minute trip, including a walk around some island. Completely on a whim, we paid the man and jumped on his boat with another Irish couple.
Ruined abbey on Innisfallen Island
Turns out he was taking us to Innisfallen Island, where there were the ruins of an ancient abbey on a deserted, tiny island. Awesome! He dropped us off on the island and told us to come back in about half an hour. Walking through the ancient, unmortared abbey with no one around, it was easy to see why the monks had set up here to live in isolation. Life would not have been easy, but there was plenty of beauty to be had. We walked the perimeter of the tiny island, and the views of the National Park were simply astounding.
View from Innisfallen
We were returned to Ross Castle, and made our way back through the Park to Killarney. We got a bit turned around and took the long way, effectively doubling the walk back.
The Gap of Dunloe
We had reservations at The Purple Heather, a B&B near the Gap of Dunloe, so we made the short drive and got checked in for the night. At the B&B, we met a nice couple from California who were doing a trip very similar to ours. They recommended the food and nightly live music at the famous Kate Kearney’s Cottage right at the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe. There was still some light left in the day, so we drove to the Gap. The roads here are clearly meant more for carriages than cars, and there is only room for one vehicle to pass at a time. The view, however is totally worth it. We only wish we had more time to do some hiking in the area.
We made our way back to Kate Kearney’s and settled in for a pint and some warm food. I had the roast leg of lamb and Alexis the lamb shank. Both were excellent. Kate Kearney’s has a warm, welcoming ambiance. There was a three-man band playing traditional music while two teenagers did some Irish tap dancing. It was a lot of fun! During intermission, we spoke to the musicians, and they were delighted to learn that Alexis was a violinist. They insisted that she play a song with them. She played “Wild Mountain Thyme” with them, and the whole audience loved it. It was a memorable experience, to say the least. You can read Alexis’ thoughts on the experience on her blog. We ended the night with some Banoffee Pie (banana coffee cake) and a hot Irish whiskey. It was the perfect Irish evening.