Day 5 – The Ring of Kerry and Kenmare

Well rested and well fed, thanks to the hospitality of Tim and Nora Moriarty, we headed out to drive the epic Ring of Kerry.  We decided to go counterclockwise, in the same direction as tour buses.  Some would advise doing the opposite, and this may be true during peak season, but we agreed with Fodor’s suggestion that you’ll get the best views going counterclockwise.

Kerry Bog Village

Alexis with the Irish wolf hounds

One of the first stops we made was at the Kerry Bog Village.  It was a neat little village that gave some insight into what living in the peat bogs would have been like.  The smell of peat smoke was pervasive (and a bit noxious).  There were also massive Irish wolf hounds there.  It was kinda cool, but all-in-all I would have to say it is not a must see attraction on the ring.

A man with his dog and donkey


Continuing on the ring, we were greeted by some gorgeous mountain scenery.  And a man with a little dog riding in a basket on top of a donkey.  Rocky hills and bright green valleys surrounded us on all sides.  It really is a bit overwhelming just how beautiful the mountains of Kerry really are.  And then we reached the ocean, and it became evident why the Ring of Kerry is Ireland’s most popular tourist attraction.

The mountains meet the ocean.

The views don’t stop there.  One could literally stop every 30 seconds and get a new, breathtaking view.  Rarely does the word “awesome” get used in such an appropriate manner.

Ballycarbery Castle

We made a stop in the small town of Cahersiveen because of signs pointing to a castle and ring forts. This became one of the highlights of the trip.  Just a short drive off the ring is the ruined Ballycarbery Castle, right in the middle of a cow pasture. There was a barbed wire fence around it, though it was clear that people went under it. We did just that, and got to climb around on the ruins of the castle, being careful not to do any damage to the ruins or hurt ourselves, of course.  Taking guided tours of castles is awesome. Walking around in a castle with not another soul around is awesomer.  Those vines growing on the castle? Those are full of bees, just fyi.

A short distance from the castle are some unmortared ring forts, where ancient farmers would have lived. Some believe these were the homes of fairies. On our trip we saw many of these ring forts, and were in awe at how something so old (they were built about 700 C.E.) could last for so long almost untouched by time.

Moving on, we stopped in Portmagee to have lunch at The Moorings Restaurant. I had fish and chips again, and Alexis had a sauteed Sole with lemon butter. This was the best fish we had in Ireland, and I highly recommend it. We were going to visit the little island of Valencia, but were sidetracked by a sign declaring “the best cliff views in Kerry”. We were not disappointed.

The Cliffs of Kerry

Seriously, go visit the cliffs of Kerry.

The Coast of Kerry

A bit pressed for time, we decided to skip Valencia. There was no shortage of beautiful coastal views however, and we made plenty of stops to snap more photos. The winds off the ocean are pretty biting, but the vistas are endless. Alas, the coastline finally gave way to the forest of Killarney National Park, and we made our way to Kenmare.

Kenmare is an interesting little town. If any place that we had visited in Ireland could be called posh, it was Kenmare. Everything was a bit more upscale than we had been seeing. Including the lodging.  This was the only night we had not booked a room somewhere, and most of the B&Bs were full. While we pondered moving on to Killarney for the night, we had a cup of coffee at The Truffle Pig (entirely because of the awesome name, though the coffee was very good) and dinner at Prego Restaurant. Yep, an Italian restaurant in Ireland. It was delicious.  Alexis got a shrimp pasta dish that was very good, and I ate an Irish breakfast pizza. Bacon, sausage and black pudding on pizza is great, seriously. We inquired about hostels with the staff, and they told us there was only one, Failte Hostel. They only had one private room left, so we took it. It was a nice hostel that seemed to cater to a more adult crowd, and we liked that. The beds were rock hard though.

We ended the night by listening to Irish music at Davitt’s Restaurant. We loved the music of Janet Dowd, a nice mix of traditional and contemporary Irish music, and purchased her CD.  You can read Alexis’ thoughts on it here.

It was a good day.

David and Alexis on The Ring of Kerry


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